The Divine Drift of River Cruising

Get over the fairytales. The eastern Danube is ugly-beautiful.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
barges from the stern
passage in Bucharest
St Anthony's  Bucharest
dilapidated Bucharest
Bucharest, bathing at Rousse
communist sculpture & signage on the road to Varna
bathing at Varna
Varna hipsters, Belgrade Fort
Sava river Belgrade
Viminacium Serbia
Belogradchick
dining on the River Princess
Donji Milanovac
Vukovar
monastery in Vinkozci Croatia
church on Danube
near the Iron Gate
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It’s day two of our Eastern European river cruise and the only cruising we’ve done is drifting across the Danube from the Romanian side of the river to the Bulgarian side, a distance of less than a kilometre. Eventually the ship will glide upstream towards Vienna, passing through Serbia, Croatia and Hungary, but right now we’re moored at an embankment where corpulent Bulgarians lie along the hot concrete towpath browning themselves in the 35 degree C heat.  But we wouldn’t have it any other way. Unlike ocean cruises, river cruises let you get down with the locals. Drifting is just our speed.

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