Where the cool things are

Halcyon House reinvents Aussie coastal chic

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Spa
Bar, tracks in foreshore
beach
headland
Paper Daisy
Steak tartare, Mahi Mahi baked in kelp
from the foreshore
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It has been five years since Mr and Mrs Amos checked into Halcyon House, the reinvented motel in a quiet Australian east coast village which became a style setter the moment it opened its doors in 2015. We’re pleased to report that the Halcyon Days continue.

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Santa Maria Novella Relaxing Water

Words: Lee Tulloch

We can’t abide a long-haul flight without a little bottle of mist to freshen up between movies. Historic Florence-based apothecary Santa Maria Novella (you should know the beautiful shop near the church) makes one of the most refreshing spray waters, from distilled witch-hazel, chamomile, cornflower and peppermint. $50 for 50ml.

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July Checked Suitcase

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos

Mrs Amos has been a slow converter to clamshell suitcases but she has become very attached to her midsize suitcase from Australian-designed July brand. It’s tough, lightweight, smooth to roll, with clever internal compartments that help consolidate a lot of clothes into a compact space. The smaller carry-on comes with a removable battery charger. Checked […]

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Sisley Phyto-Blanc Le Concentrate

Words: Lee Tulloch

This new brightening and unifying serum from Sisley has intense properties but it’s deceptively light to use. We haven’t been on a plane for a few months, but trialing it at home, it has definitely enhanced the radiance of housebound skin.  As soon as we travel, it’s going in the kit, especially on long-haul flights when […]

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SENSORI + Air Detoxifying Aromatic Mist

Words: Lee Tulloch

These brilliant purifying mists are based on an all natural plant extracted compound, ClorosPURE, that eradicates air toxins and neutralises bad odours on a molecular level. Wonderful for less-than-fresh compartments of trains, planes and hotel rooms. Four signature fragrances plus unscented. Mrs Amos won’t leave home without the 30ml travel size. $29. Sensori+ 

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Sailing the Med in style.

Is Satori the world's most beautiful yacht?

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Satori off Elba.
Arrival.
Rear deck.
Clause and Jeanette.
Salon
Captain Ali at the helm.
Massage and spa.
Master suite.
Details of timbers and sails.
Mid deck dining.
Rose and clam pasta for lunch.
Local catch.
Reflections at dusk.
Breakfast buffet.
Pastries and cheeses for breakfast.
Indoor breakfast.
Satori at rest and under sail.
Day bed on rear deck.
Water sports.
Bow at sail.
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Forget those ugly mega-yachts, if you can afford to splurge on a Mediterranean charter with style, the handcrafted schooner Satori is so elegant, it’s like the Orient Express on water.  

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Eating around Porto

It's not just about the wine.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Bars and restaurants on the Douro.
Facing the Douro.
Downhill from the Jewish quarter.
Colour in the backstreets.
Signage.
Porto station.
Porto station.
Vintage shop fronts.
Abadia
Conga, grill and blood soup.
Escondidinho. View from the Intercontinental.
Degustation at the Yeatman.
Farturas at street cart. Padaria Ribeiro.
Central Porto. Guarany.
Aperola do Bolhao.
Mercado do Bolhao. A Vida Portuguesa.
Record books and garden at Taylor's.
Port ageing at Taylor's.
Detail of floor at Pestana Palacio do Freixo.
Pestana Palacio do Freixo.
Pestana Palacio do Freixo.
Restoration.
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Porto is having a moment as one of Europe’s coolest cities. From its lovely ceramic-covered buildings to the venerable port lodges that lie along the glorious Douro River that bisects it, this hilly, moody city, from which the fortified wine takes its name, is startlingly beautiful and culturally rich. It’s Portugal’s second largest, but its […]

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Castle in the Woods

A medieval Tuscan village is turned into a picture perfect hotel.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
The Borgo.
villa
vineyards
Brunello
kitchen garden
cooking school
fresh and delicious
Wines at Osteria La Canonica
immaculate grounds
The Borgo and statue of San Michele.
The Borgo with spa on the right.
Private pool at a villa.
Lobby Lounge
Lobby and Campo del Drago
AM and PM
Gateway to the ruined tower
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There are few country hotels that are as perfect as this former hunting estate of Italian kings.  And that’s before we consider those prized vineyards and that luscious Brunello.

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Ireland’s Rockstar Beauty

Lose yourself in The Burren's award-winning food trail

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Upper slopes.
Using limestone.
Upper slopes.
Church ruin at Creggagh.
Church ruin near Doolin.
Grazing on upper slopes.
Foraged delicacies from Oonah O Dwyer.
Burren cheeses, Mr and Mrs Fergal Smith at their produce stall in Ennistymon
Roadside Tavern salmon dish and Peter Curtin.
Roadside Tavern, Lisdoonvarna
Peter Curtin in the bar at Roadside Tavern.
Donal Monahan and his flock.
Staff member at Burren free range pork.
Burren free range pork
Gregans Castle
Gregans Castle, hallway and dining room.
Gregans Castle
Staff at St Tola.
Goats cheese ageing at St Tola.
Linnane's
Cafe Linalla
StoneCutters Kitchen.
StoneCutters Kitchen, Myles Duffy.
By the sea near Flaggy shore.
By the sea.
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We don’t use the word ‘stunning’ lightly, but The Burren, or ‘great rock’, in County Clare is one of Ireland’s most stunning landscapes. It’s also a culinary destination that has been, until recent times, the world’s best kept secret. Now a burgeoning food scene, focussed on high quality organic produce and sustainable farming practices, has sprung up throughout the villages that lie within the UNESCO-listed region.

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Sicily is so hot right now.

Ten unmissable places to visit.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Beach at Malfa.
Olive trees, Marsala.
Cactus garden at baglio Donna Franca.
Dusk at Donna Franca, looking to the Aegadian Islands.
Dilapidated beauty reminiscent of The Leopard.
Maria Grammatico, Erice
Erice
Cathedral di Monreale
Palermo
Palermo
wheat fields in the central mountains
Agrigento
Agrigento
Cefalu
Cefalu
Cefalu passegiata and late afternoon on the beach.
Stromboli from Malfa.
Fishing port at Malfa.
Malfa, Salina.
Ravesi's in Malfa.
Taormina
Duomo di Taormina.
Corrado Assenza, Cafe Sicilia.
Cafe Sicilia, Noto.
Cathedral San Giorgio, Modica.
Waterfront, Ortigia.
Ortigia
Ortigia market.
Ortigia market.
Aperitivo at Ortigia.
Ortigia
Breakfast - Donna Franca and Henry's House.
Henry's House
Henry's House
Duomo di Syracusa.
Catania
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Beautiful, sensual Sicily is separated from the Italian mainland by the narrow Strait of Messina, but it feels wilder, more remote, off the beaten track. Touched by three seas, blessed with gorgeous, diverse vistas, from rugged coastlines, crumbling castles and magnificent Greek ruins to rolling agricultural land, citrus groves and vineyards, and beautiful seascapes where small volcanic islands glow with lava in the middle of an azure sea, it’s an island that leaves few unmoved. We are utterly smitten…

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Lisbon Awakes

What you need to know about Europe's soulful city.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Bairro Alto, Alfama
Lisbon trams
Santa Catarina
Restoring ceramics, Rossio train station
Chiado
flores naturais
Baixa rooftops
Alfama windows
Club de Fado
Memmo Alfama
Memmo Alfama
Alfama and Baixa
Alfama, Praco do Commercio
A Brasileira, Confeitaria Nacional
Luvaria Ulisses, Caza Das Vellas Loreto
Paris Em Lisboa, Vista Allegre Porcelain
Belem
A Vida Portugese
Embaixada
Palacio Ramhalete
Sao Roque church
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Romantic, cultured and inexpensive, the Portuguese capital is the European city of the moment. Lisbon’s charm lies in its genteel shabbiness and it’s still surprisingly modest and unaffected by all the attention. Even so, much of the city is being restored and gentrified. Don’t delay!

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The Where To Stay List

Fifteen hotels that wowed us.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos, Lee Tulloch
Aman Tokyo bar
Corral del Rey, Seville
The Edition, New York
The Greenwich, New York
La Reserve, Paris
Mandarin Oriental, Barcelona
The Maritime, New York
Memmo Alfama, Lisbon
Palacio do Freixo, Porto
The Principal, Madrid
Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo
Ritz Paris
Six Senses, Douro Valley
The Urso, Madrid
Zaborin, Hokkaido, Japan
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We’ve unpacked our suitcases for another year. Before we head off again, we’ve had time to reflect on our favourite hotels of the year, all of which we hope to visit again…and again. From the magnificent Ritz in Paris, which reopened after a superb restoration and update, to the dazzling, contemporary, cliff-hanging Memmo Alfama in Lisbon, we’ve laid out weary heads in some glorious places. These are our favourites…

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Shanghai Seduction

24 hours in China's sexiest city

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Pudong over Whampoa
calligraphy in the French Concession
Fuxing park
breakfast in the French Concession
South Bund fabric market
Sidecar tour
Sidecar touring
Hongkou, 1933, lunch
Avenue in French Concession, Lost Heaven
Tianzifang
Yuz museum
Maison L'Hui, Sir Elly's Bar
El Coctel
PuLi foyer
PuLi dining
no title
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The locals say Shanghai is a beautiful, fickle temptress who will surprise you at every turn. From dawn until dark, we pack as many of her delights as we can into one day.

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Snowed Inn

Near the Japanese ski village of Niseko, a ryokan for all seasons

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Sotoyukiwa suite and onsen
exterior
snow sculpture
ceramic and ice
Okami
balcony and onsen
Sotoyukiwa suite
snow drift
toast, coffee
Mr Sato
lounge
lounge
Kaiseki
local beef
Yoshiro Seno
Shouya Grigg in the foyer
reception
hallway on courtyard
private tea room
Hanazono forest
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We have rarely stayed anywhere as beautiful and soul-enriching as this modern ryokan in the deep forest in Japan, where cherished traditions meld with state of the art accommodation.  And let’s talk about those amazing private onsen baths….

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Tri Change

It's all about mind-body at Sri Lanka's premier eco resort

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Tri at dawn from Lake Kogalla
Cinnamon being stripped, water tower
villas
plunge pool and villa
plunge pool overlooking lake
airy villa with cinnamon stick cladding
early morning
details of recycled timber and rope
pool and lounge area
yoga at the shala
library
sushi
Rob in the tower
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This tranquil new boutique resort on Lake Koggala sits in a cinnamon plantation and offers many restorative pleasures, and some kick-ass yoga from owner Lara Baumann, the creator of Quantum Yoga.  We didn’t want to leave…

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Keeping the Castle

Ashford Castle's ravishing makeover.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Connaught room
Medieval, French Chateau, Victorian Gothic styles
Lough Corrib, dock
Ferry brings guests to the hotel.
Lobby; Prince of Wales bar
George V
Garvan and Cronan
outside Connaught room; George V dining room
high tea in the Connaught Room
high tea
Opulent interiors
Prince of Wales bar
Guest suite
Lough Corrib, dusk
walled garden
Formal gardens
Formal gardens
Walled garden; gate
Thomas teaching archery
Hawk; forest
Falconry school
Hawk and head dresses
Stables; riding path
On the grounds
Walking to Cong
By the bridge at Cong; bicycles at Ashford
Ashford's resident gillie
Martin, George V dining room
Kennedy suite
Kennedy suite
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Restoring and revamping an 82-guestroom Irish castle hotel takes buckets of money and more than a little courage. How wonderful, then, that the Tollman family of the Red Carnation Hotel Collection had the wherewithal and commitment to give this much-loved but run-down dowager a sumptuous, sexy makeover.

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Gold, Frankincense and Myrrh

Shopping for Christmas treasures in Oman

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
big Majmar, Muscat
Muttrah souq, Muscat
frankincense, Muttrah souq, Muscat
Muttrah souq, Muscat
frankincense tree, Wadi Dawkah
myrrh, frankincense souq, Salalah
frankincense sap, Wadi Dawkah
140911-1217s
Palace
camels at Sumhuram
massar and robes, frankincense souq, Salalah
frankincense, majmar
Amouage
Chedi, Muscat
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The mesmerising souks of Muscat and Salalah in Oman are treasure troves of the fragrant resins, frankincense and myrrh, and gold can better value there than Dubai. At Christmas time, what better place to do a little (or a lot of) shopping for the storied gifts of the Magi? In honour of the gift-giving season, we track down the frankincense to its source and find out about its magical properties. (Did you know you can eat it?) Two not-so-wise people on the trail of the Three Wise Men…

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Blissed-out beach break

Surfing the nostalgia wave at Halcyon House

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Prosecco on balcony at sunset, late surf
pigface, Halcyon House pool
Parko and local birds
fun little waves at dawn
uncrowded fun
dawn
Parko desalinating and juicing
passionfruit, banksia
breakfast
Halcyon House, bottlebrush
bicycles at Halcyon, bike track through bush
Halcyon House, Ben Devlin
lunch
carpark and pool Halcyon House
balconies from suites
suite 208
suite 208
down to Cabarita
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Australia’s beautiful and breezy Halcyon House is tucked away on a less well-known part of the lauded NSW coast,  a nostalgic conversion of a 1960s motel – a place where memories of blissful and uncomplicated childhood holidays flood back. Mr Amos goes surfing with former World Champion Joel Parkinson, while Mrs Amos works hard at perfecting lazing around.

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Venice’s Villa Fantasy

Eleven apartments, a 3 acre garden, 60,000 euro a night.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Zaffiro
Zaffiro
Residenza F
gateway
artichoke and plumbs in the garden
pool
foyer
foyer
breakfast and welcome drinks
suites, rustic and not
on the Fondamenta
textures on the Fondamenta
across to Venice
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How does it feel to have an eleven apartment, €60,000-euro a night villa in Venice all to yourself for three nights? We simply had to find out!

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Visiting the Queen of Sheba

A guide to Oman's exquisite, remote south

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
on the Arabian sea south of Salalah
green surrounded by desert
forest, Taqa fort
Taqa Fort
air drying camel meat, stew
dining room at local restaurant road
incredibly delicious camel meat
south of Mirbat, traders house
ruin of traders house, Mirbat
beautiful ruins, Mirbat
ruins of old souq, Mirbat
old souq and desert petrol bowser, Mirbat
net repairs, Mirbat
after the haul, Mirbat
Mirbat port, bringing in the catch
blackened fish, Mirbat
recreation in Mirbat
dhows off Mirbat
wadi Dawkah
camels at Sumhuram
Sumhuram
remnants of Al Baleed
frankincense land, frankincense
frankincense souq Salalah
Sultan Qaboos Mosque, beach at the corniche
on the corniche
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Venture beyond Oman’s capital, Muscat, to a storied land that defies expectations, where the Queen of Sheba once ruled and the landscape varies from rocky desert to hundreds of miles of deserted beaches and hills so lush they might be in Ireland. Salalah, the land of Frankincense, is safe, friendly, and so gorgeous it’s heart-stopping. And there are camels. Thousands of them.

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How to Cruise in Style

Why we love small ships

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
departing from Venice
reception, Le Soleal
early to the pool
breakfast
beautiful Hvar
sailing on
Dubrovnic before the crowds
the bridge
off Parga
Parga with Le Soleal offshore
lunchtime
Corinth canal
captain's table
Delos
Le Soleal off Delos
smart service
port of Mykonos
pre dinner cocktail
Mykonos from Le Soleal
social and not
farewell drinks
into Istanbul
hello Istanbul
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There’s a ship for every kind of voyager these days. There are rowdy cruises for singles who want to spend their entire holiday in a sexy clinch with a stranger and cruises catering to well-read people who are interested in lectures about ancient Mycean civilisation. There are cruises for families, gays, French-speaking people and adventurers. If you like to travel with 4000 other likeminded citizens, there are cruises for you. But we advise you take a deep breath before you take a bath. Small ships are the way to go.

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Aesop Protective Body Lotion

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos

Why do sun lotions have to smell so bad? This one doesn’t. It has a heavenly minty fragrance and is chock full of skin-nourishing Vitamin E. Four hours water resistance and effective broad spectrum protection from UVA and UVB rays. Summer is sorted. $45AUD

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The Sexiest Hotel in the World?

20 shades of white on the Amalfi Coast.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Positano from Casa Angelina
lounge vista
lounge
suite
suite
200 steps, Gulf of Salerno
Eudesea suites, Gulf of Salerno
Eudesea above La Gavitella Beach Club
La Gavitella Beach slip
La Gavitella from above, Praiano
church at Priano, Capri in the extreme distance
Vincenzo Vanacore
Un Piano nel Cielo
to Eudesea suites,  bath
Eudesea suite
Casa Angelina garden and Gulf of Salerno
distant Capri from Casa Angelina
Gulf of Salerno
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What makes Casa Angelina sexy? For starters, there’s the jaw-dropping view of the Mediterranean coast, all the way to Capri. And then there’s the sense of being cosseted in an intimate, all-white eyrie. Fifty shades of grey? We prefer twenty shades of white.

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Playing Cowgirl in Texas

There's more to Fort Worth than rodeos.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Lee Tulloch
Stocking up on boots at ML Leddy's, Fort Worth, Texas
Cowgirl suitcase, ML Leddy's Fort Worth
National Cowgirl Museum and Hall of Fame
Annie Oakley, Maverick's Western Store, Fort Worth
Cowgirl Brenda; Jim 'Creek' Tipton and Lyle Holliday
Drover, muster, Stockyards Fort Worth
Cowgirl essentials
ML Leddy's, Fort Worth
Coliseum Rodeo Fort Worth
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The National Cowgirl Museum and Hall of Fame in Fort Worth, Texas is nirvana for wannabe cowgirls. Mrs Amos visits this surprisingly vibrant city and goes in search of cowgirls, old-worldy and modern. Yee Haw!

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The Shoemaker’s Hotel

Salvatore Ferragamo's legacy is in good hands in Florence

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
museum, lasts
sandal 1940's with fishing line
Palazzo Feroni Spini
production at Ferragamo factory
by hand
the Arno from suite 505, rainbow
Caffe Dell'Oro, foyer
Caffe Dell'Oro
suite 505 lounge
suite 505
bedroom suite 505
the Arno from our suite
rooftops across the Arno
scooter and Ponte Vecchio
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Salvatore Ferragamo liked to call himself, humbly, a ‘shoemaker.’ And yet he was undoubtedly the most innovative shoe designer the world has known, inventing such classics as the cork wedge-heeled shoe and the ‘cage heel’, a hollow heel encrusted with rhinestones. His legacy is still alive in Florence, where one can find the original Ferragamo factory, corporate headquarters and a fascinating museum that houses his collection of amazing shoes. Now, there’s a beautiful hotel that pays homage to Ferragamo’s place in Florence’s fashion history.

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Romantic Ruins

The intriguing beauty of neglect

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Abandoned villa, Marsala, Sicily
Dome of the Chora; facade, Chiangir, Istanbul, Turkey
Murals, St Antony's, Bucharest, Romania
Graffiti, Ortigia, Sicily; relics, chapel, Monteverdi, Tuscany
Abandoned street, Mumbai; mausoleum, Vukovar, Croatia
Facade, balcony, Bucharest, Romania
Empty building, Venice; cemetery, Copenhagen
Smashed bottle, demolished building, Palermo, Italy
Ancient foundations, Malfa, Salina, Aeolian Islands.
Fortress wall, Parga, Greece
Spire under restoration; timber house, Istanbul, Turkey
Herder's shack, Delos, Greece
Antiquities, Delos, Greece
Houses around Nizwa fort, Oman
Galle, Sri Lanka
Galle, Sri Lanka
Church, waterfront house, Galle Fort, Sri Lanka
Interior of deserted house, Galle Fort, Sri Lanka
Crumbling house, east of Galle, Sri Lanka
Ta Prohm, Wat Nokor, Cambodia
Walls of old house, Rarotonga, Cook islands
Staircase, Eagles Nest; table, Old Westbury Gardens, Long Island, NY
Headless statue, Oheka Castle, Long Island, New York
Shack, Port Stanley, Falkland islands
Political mural, dead trees, Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego
Seaman's Internacional Discotheque, Valparaiso, Chile
Ruined house, Valparaiso, Chile
Shop window, mural, Valparaiso, Chile
Next Next

The world is full of palaces and penthouses, but when we travel we don’t look for perfection. Instead, we gravitate towards the beautifully dilapidated – the broken down palazzo, the forgotten house, the bombed out apartment building, the abandoned villa that has been overtaken by time and nature. For those who share our obsession, a slideshow of 49 images of the gorgeously ruined, from Bucharest to the Falkland Islands.

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Guesthouse Rules

The oldfashioned pleasures of doing very little

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Bells at Killcare from the lawn
garden bloom; duck ravioli
Chef Marco in the garden
Herb garden
in the garden
Cottage at Bells
Suite in duplex cottage
Putty beach
Low tide at Hardys bay
Dinghies at Hardys bay
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Country guesthouses are the linchpin of ‘slow’ travel and they’re back with a vengeance in our anxious decade. There’s nothing more restorative than a whole week or weekend ensconced in a chair on a veranda with a book, not having to think about organising meals, the house or the social agenda. Inertia rules. So, with this in mind, we lolled about at one of Australia’s most well-regarded guesthouses, Bells At Killcare, and discovered a secluded peninsula close to Sydney we barely knew existed.

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Shore Thing

On deck at the Atlantic's loveliest beach resort

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
from the beach
at the front door
lobby
dining
dining
deck
garden and deck
lighthouse suite
to and from dune cottage
dune cottage night and day
roof of dune cottage
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She’s the grand dame of American summer resorts, and named number one resort in the continental USA for 2014 by Travel & Leisure magazine. But The Ocean House on Rhode Island has another story to tell – the passion of a new owner to restore a fading icon back to her former loveliness. We visit Watch Hill’s enduring landmark and get nostalgic for the Atlantic summers we never knew…

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Serene Kingdom

Has Cambodia at last found good karma?

Words: Carli Ratcliff, Photography: Tony Amos
children on the Mekong at Angkor Ban
chili and salt dipped fruit, gardens of national museum
Raffles Phnom Penh - foyer and Elephant Bar
Raffles Phnom Penh - banana flower salad, amok
Russian market - Alain and Meng, noodles
Russian market
Russian market - street food
Russian market, 240th street
The Jahan - Taj suite
Solida teaching tai chi on The Jahan
Kampong Tralach
Koh Okhna Tey
Angkor Ban
street food at Wat Nokor
Wat Nokor
Wat Nokor ruins
Kampong Chnang on Tonle Sap
late afternoon storm
Wat Hanchey
Wat Hanchey
Wat Hanchey
The Jahan, Mekong at dusk
Orphanage school
drying corn
barbershop, stone carving
delicious roadside sticky rice
flowers outside temple, Grand Hotel D'Angkor after champagne
breakfast at Raffles Siem Reap
Raffles Siem Reap
Sugar Plum in Siem Reap
Miss Wong in Siem Reap
gate Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat
Ta Prohm, Bayon
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The infectious optimism of the Cambodian people is all the more remarkable for the kingdom’s painful past. Carli Ratcliff and Tony Amos take a trip down the Mekong to discover a country of silks, spices, moss-covered temples, delicate cuisine  – and a precious newfound serenity.

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The Killing Tour

The current craze for Scandi Crime

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
the bridge, from the Malmo side
Asa outside Lisbeth's apt, Lisa Lotte at police h.q.
Lisbeth lingers around Bellmansgaten
detective work, Sodermalm
location of Millennium office
town hall Copenhagen
meatpacking district Copenhagen
springtime in Stockholm
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Ice cold countries are hot. And so is Scandi Crime, now a big industry, with Scandinavian TV series The Killing and The Bridge spawning international copies, and Nordic and Scandinavian crime writers such as Stieg Larsson, Henning Mankell, Camilla Lackberg and Jo Nesbo  gaining fans in the millions. Dedicated followers of all things sinister in the frosty north should know that there’s also an industry in Scandi Crime walks, in Stockholm, Copenhagen, and also in  smaller cities such as Ystad, where Mankell sets his Wallander crime series. We went for a walk on the dark side of Stockholm and Copenhagen to discover more about our favourite novelists and TV series.

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Peggy’s Palazzo

A private view of Peggy Guggenheim's Venice home

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
grand canal from roof garden
cafeteria
garden
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Peggy Guggenheim, in her caftans and huge sunglasses, riding around Venice in her private gondola with her dogs, became an accidental fashion icon in her latter years. But her devotion to contemporary art was serious and her instincts sound. Her exceptional collection of great 20th Century masterpieces is housed in her palazzo on the Grand Canal in Venice, and the spirit of Peggy still pervades every room. We were lucky enough to be granted a private visit, to what is now Italy’s number one museum of modern art. Indulge in some Pegginess with us.

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Sweet Istanbul

Is this the world's most intoxicating city?

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Bosphorus
the Chora
byzantine
chestnuts and corn
tea and simit
pipes
spice market, best kebap
dried eggplant, pomegranate
narli fitil lokum
grand bazaar
hamam sandals, rugs
Mustafa Kemal Ataturk is everywhere
Lokum
Witt Suites lounge
Witt Suites room
Bilgeoglu in Kadikoy
Cafer Erol Kadikoy
Kadikoy
Kadikoy market
coffee in Kadikoy
Bosphorus, cemetery
fishing from Galata bridge
fish sandwich at Galata bridge with entertainment
wooden houses Edirnekapi
cafes Cihangir
Cukurcuma
Cukurcuma brocant
from roof of Hotel Corinne
Hotel Corinne
Hotel Corinne suite
Raika
Ciragan Palace pool
Ciragan Palace
Ciragan Palace hamam
Istanbul Archeology Museums
Istanbul Archeology Museums, Hagia Sofia
Hagia Sofia engineering
Hagia Sofia
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Istanbul’s layers, visual, cultural, religious, traditional and modern, are like baklava, so rich you risk indigestion. But it’s precisely this chaotic juxtaposition of elements that makes Istanbul the most exciting and intoxicating place in the world.

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Seven Sublime Italian Hotels

From a charming seaside pensione to a blowout villa in Venice.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Henry's House Charme Hotel
Casa Angelina Eaudesa suites, bar
CasaCau, Apartment 4.
Castiglion Del Bosco
Monteverdi
Portrait Firenze
Villa F  bedrooms,  rustic or not
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We’re back from a month in Italy, starting in magnificent Sicily and ending in glorious Venice. As we wound our way through the country, by plane, train and car, we discovered some exceptional hotels, from an immaculately restored palazzo in Siracusa to a 60,000 euro a night palace on Giudecca, from a renovated village on a hilltop overlooking the Val D’Orcia to a stylish newcomer on the Arno in Florence. We found a gem in Rome and a dazzling boutique hotel on Amalfi Coast, too. We’d go back to any one of them in a heartbeat. Here’s our hot list…

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Dazzling Marrakech

An insider guide to Morocco's city of artisans

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
the medina
the medina
filigree lamps
the medina
medicinal herbs
bakery
the medina
Chez Lamine
dyed leather in the medina
Le Jardin Marjorelle
33 Rue Marjorelle
Dar Yacout
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It’s difficult to show restraint in Marrakech, one of the world’s most sybaritic cities.  Inside the medina (the fortified old city), everything you come across is either exceptionally beautiful or exceptionally curious. It’s a visual overload. We found an insider to show us the way. 

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Belle Catherine

Cruising on Europe's most opulent river ship

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Lee Tulloch
bedroom
S.S Catherine
chandelier; leopard print
ceramic jungle
breakfast buffet
Deneuve, Mrs Tollman, Toni Tollman
christening
macaroons, cheese for lunch
glass horse
truffle hunting
truffles and rose
Saint Joseph
selfie, afternoon tea
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There’s a swimming pool in the bar, the decor includes lashings of leopard-print, and French icon Catherine Deneuve is its godmother – reason enough for Uniworld’s new river ship, the S.S. Catherine, to make a big splash. Mrs Amos sails on her inaugural cruise and has lunch with La Deneuve.

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Desert Awakening

A walk in Arabia's Empty Quarter

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
dawn camel ride
desert dawn
desert abstract
breakfast
poolside
poolside
library
historical collection
dusk
local fauna at dusk
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A dawn walk in the endless dunes of the Arabian Empty Quarter is one of life’s truly mindblowing experiences. We find our inner Lawrence of Arabia when we stay at Anantara’s beautiful desert resort Qasr al Sarab.

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In Love with Hotel Lobbies

An affair that started with Fred and Ginger

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Plaza Athenee
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Mrs Amos always gravitates towards the most glamorous hotel lobby in town whenever she hits a city. ‘A hotel lobby is a theatre set, a stage for people to reinvent themselves, pretend to be someone else, act out fantasies, or connect with strangers.’

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A Cooking Class in Venice

Shop. Stir. Eat. Love it!

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
dock at The Cipriani
Cipriani boat Grand Canal
on the way
original market site
Rialto Market - 13
Macelleria Equina
Rialto market
Rialto market
Renato
Cantina Do Mori
Cantina Do Mori
coffee before work
kitchen at Fortuny
making tiramisu
Restaurant Fortuny
Restaurant Fortuny
gnocci, prawn risotto
tiramisu and Friuli Grappa
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There are few better ways of seeing a city than tagging along with a local while they shop at the produce market. Even better if the local is one of that city’s top chefs. We go to the Rialto market with the Executive Chef of The Cipriani in Venice and learn some interesting things about  cooking risotto.

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Welcome to Harlem

A guide to New York's sassiest neighbourhood

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Red Rooster
Sunday morning
Sunday morning
Sunday morning visitors
churches
churches
130th street, Astor Row
public garden
Washington Irving Residence
Sylvan Terrace
Morris - Jumel Mansion
Trinity Cemetery
relief
beauty
Sugar Hill
721 Guest Suites outside and in
Caridad
Harlem Shambles
Princess Jenkins and one of her faithful
Batters
Hat Heaven, Hats by Bunn
diner - late
salon - late
salon - late
fast food, Chez Lucienne
Paris Blues
Paris Blues
Samuel Hargress Jr at Paris Blues
security camera at the IHOP - late
125th St subway at Malcolm X Blvd
on Malcolm X
good company
Amy Ruth's
Tren'ness at Sylvia's
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New York’s friendly and funky Harlem is our favourite neighbourhood. It has had its troubled times, but a strong community spirit has never wavered. Now, it’s jumping with fabulous bars and restaurants where there once were vacant shopfronts. A visit to Harlem is the most fun you can have on Manhattan. Our guide to where to eat, stay, shop, play, pray and catch some sweet jazz.

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It’s Muumuu Heaven

Take a sidetrip to an Hawaiian store that's 100% fabulous.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Deb casual modelling in shop & Kailua
Muumuu Heaven
Muumuu Heaven
bobbins and buttons
homewares
homewares
Muumuu bags
Muumuu manequins
Deb at Buzz's
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Melbourne girl Deb Mascia recycled vintage muumuus into groovy fashions. An inveterate scavenger, she took trash and turned it into furniture and fun items for the home.  Now, her zany boutique in Kailua on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii, attracts celebrities and Japanese tourists alike. The Obamas are her  most famous customers. We took the forty-minute drive from Honolulu to visit Muumuu Heaven and have a coupe of champagne with its madcap owner. Several mai tais at Buzz’s Steakhouse later, we got the story…

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All Aboard the Orient-Express

The famous train lives up to its romantic history

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
check in, dining arrangements
welcome
cabin
cabin, I cant run enough pictuers of Rupert
bathroom,  wardrobe
Italy goes by
don't forget where you are
is this on a train
could you do this from a fast moving kitchen, non !
Christian Bodigel
bar car
the bar
breakfast by Rupert
Germany
Hamburg camp from train
Denmark
Copenhagen station
Rupert with DSB officer
Sweden
Sweden
sad to leave
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Travelling on the Venice-Simplon Orient-Express is one the great romantic journeys but we were afraid the experience would not live up to its fame.   Discard that thought. We took the train’s inaugural trip from Venice to Stockholm and found the three-day voyage a marvelous romp, even without the murder and intrigue.

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Paris in Greenwich Village

A fleabag with literary cachet becomes a romantic hotel

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
lounge
lounge, Sean Macpherson
Washington square
penthouse
bathroom of penthouse
room
coffee bar
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New York hotelier Sean Macpherson has taken a Greenwich Village flophouse and turned it until a hotel de charme reminiscent of legendary Left Bank boltholes like Scott Fitzgerald’s favourite, the Hotel des Saint-Peres. What the rooms lack size they make up for in panache.

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Grand Budapest Hotel

Inspired by the hilarious movie, we revisit an old favourite

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
facade of Gresham Palace
foyer
ante room, hallway
suite
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We are huge fans of American film director Wes Anderson and his wonderful film, Grand Budapest Hotel. Let us indulge in a little nostalgia of our own for our favourite Grand Budapest Hotel, the Four Seasons Gresham Palace…

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Ravishing Rarotonga

In love with the Pacific's lesser known paradise.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
the lagoon
main road (Ara Tapu)
best fish sandwich in the world
the mountain
flowers and fish
more flowers and some fish CafeTahiti
pearls at Bergman and Sons, locals
Titikaveka Church
Queen Emma Pirangi
flame trees, Brother Love
home
private cemetery, shrine
cemetery at Avarua Church
sewing - ti vai vai
progressive dinner
Danny and his grandchildren
Pa
in the jungle with Pa
Avarua harbour, Ara Tapu
Vaka
Tav prints, Vaka
Te Manava Villas, Little Polynesian
Te Vakaroa Villas
Ika Mata at Tamarind House
transport and communication
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We are completely besotted by the beautiful Cook Islands,which are something of an insider’s secret compared to popular Fiji, Tahiti and Hawaii. Although the group of fifteen islands sits in the middle of two million square miles of ocean, direct flights from Sydney, Los Angeles and other points now make the ‘Cooks’ more accessible than ever. We hang out with the locals on Rarotonga, the nation’s island capital, check out the best accommodation, devour fresh mahi-mahi sandwiches and learn that island living can be as simple and blissful as you wish it to be.

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Valentine’s Stay

14 romantic hotel bedrooms we love

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Bellechasse
Bellechasse
Cipriani
Falaknuma Palace
L'Hotel
Six Senses Laamu
The Lancaster
The Marlton
Metsi Suite, Molori
Nimb
Nomad
Qualia
Raffles Siem Reap
Shipman House
The Surrey
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It’s that time of the year when a person’s fancy turns to – sexy hotel rooms. In honour of Valentine’s Day, February 14, we’ve collected together 14 of the most romantic hotel rooms we’ve stayed in lately, from a cosy boudoir in Greenwich Village to an art deco landmark in Cambodia.

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A Love Nest in Istanbul

The secret history of a romantic little hotel

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
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Put this in your address book – a wonderful boutique hotel in Istanbul that we recently discovered purely by chance. The 102 year-old apartment building was once the love nest of modern Turkey’s reformer, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, and his Italian mistress. Romantic, much?

 

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Think Pink Hawaii

Follow Don Draper to Waikiki's Pink Palace

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
the Coconut Grove
cabana at Royal Pool
the orchid hallway
lobby of the new tower
Coconut Grove lanai
Coconut Grove lanai
an original map of Hawaii, Coconut Grove
Royal Suite
Royal Suite
outrigger at dawn on Waikiki
council vehicle
farmers market at Kapi'olani
The Pig  & The Lady Noodle Bar at the farmers market
Waikiki beach
Waikiki
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It’s probably Elvis Presley’s fault that Hawaii is thought of as ‘Blue Hawaii,’ after his popular 1961 movie of the same name. Yes, the skies are consistently blue in the 50th State of the USA. But stay in the classic Royal Hawaiian on Waikiki Beach and you’ll be dazzled by pink, from the candy-striped bathrobes in your room, to the phalanx of pink umbrellas that line the hotel’s strip of white sand.  Say yes to pink, we think!

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How Green is My Valley?

A luxury bush retreat with superb eco cred.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
sunburnt country
pool with main building in background
morning fog
suites
Blackwood Suite
Timeless Spa
hallway of Timeless Spa, reception
library, Valley bar with art by Lizzie Buckmaster Dove
dining room
dining room
lounge bar, dining room
Country Kitchen
the 1832 homestead
homestead kitchen
petrified beasties found under the homestead
vegetable garden at the homestead
from garden to plate
Wolgan River
found on the property
stables
dam with view down to resort
mocktail by the pool
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In the Blue Mountains beyond Sydney we found a remote valley of such powerful beauty it feels like the Land that Time Forget. Except that Wolgan Valley is very much on the map, thanks to a $125 million investment from Emirates airlines in 2007 which saw an exceptional conservation-based resort rise on ground that even kangaroos couldn’t reach until the 1960s.  It has just won a big sustainable tourism award. What did we think of the award-winning Emirates Wolgan Valley Resort and Spa?

 

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New York’s Fashion Revival

A hat factory becomes a chic hotel

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Refinery Hotel entrance
room
room
Rooftop Bar
Rooftop Bar interior
Parker & Quinn
martini at Parker & Quinn
schmatta, tchotchkes
Korea Way
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We visit the chic new Refinery Hotel, in midtown Manhattan, which is a savvy restoration of an arcade of that once housed high-end hat makers’ factories. The fashion-themed hotel is the new home of Project Runway – and it’s got one of the best bars in New York. But it’s also an important centrepiece in the revival of New York’s once-thriving garment district.

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The Year’s Best Experiences

Highlights from a fabulous year of travel

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
The Moorings, skies like you've never seen
MONA
Souk, Dar Yacout
Mistinguett's bed
Museum of Everything
Fragonard Museum
Qantas party
Falconing
Renato, risotto
Fortuny Museum
Orient Express
Millennium tour
Tivoli Gardens
Ta Prohm
sulphur bank, volcano
St Benedict's painted church Hawaii
best kebap at spice market, best  baklava at Bilgleoglu
Hagia Sophia
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We’ve had quite a year! Here’s a round-up of the experiences we enjoyed the most, and some previews of what’s to come. Happy travels in 2014, everyone, and thanks for coming with us.

 
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Find your Inner Viking

Get festive in Stockholm's old town

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Stortoget
Stortoget
changing of the guard
cold exterior, Den Gyldene Freden
meatballs at Den Gyldene Freden
Under Kastanjen
Roberta Settel
books and boats
bric a brac
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There’s more to Gamla Stan than moose-shaped toilet-roll holders and plastic Viking shields. Stockholm’s romantic old town is where we’d like to be this festive season.  Clogs, reindeer pelts and meatballs!

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Watsons Bay Watch

A beach holiday in Sydney's surprising east

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
view from our suite
breakfast in Sunset Lounge
Fish and Chippery
white flowering gum,waiting for the ferry
not your average suburb
parking lot
Camp Cove
Camp Cove
Bottle Brush, Kookaburra
Camp Cove, South Head Lighthouse
The Gap
by the ocean
hang out or go paddle boarding
view from suite
Beach Club
Beach Club
palms and Pimms
flora & fauna on tables
seafood by the sea
sunset and cocktails
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Sometimes we just take Sydney for granted. Beautiful weather. Yawn. Glorious harbour vistas. Yawn. Magnificent surf beaches. Yawn. Coffee-obsessed hipster neighbourhoods. Double yawn. But we were lured to pretty harbourside village Watsons Bay because we’d heard good things about the revamped Watsons Bay Boutique Hotel. What we found was gobsmackingly gorgeous.

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Over the Top in Marrakech

This glitzy palace has a curious history

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
riad, entrance
Atlas mountains from suite
Jade Room, Murano chandelier
wings in the style of Taj Mumbai
Royal Suite
Royal Suite
Royal Suite
Jiva Spa
hamam
dishes at Rumi
pool with riad in background
cocktails by the pool
riad
riad
Stuart Church
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You might remember it as the outrageously extravagant hotel from Sex and The City 2 but it’s  not in Abu Dhabi. It’s really in Marrakech.  Now the set decorators have moved on, we move in and uncover the strange background to this opulent resort hotel.

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George Clooney Slept Here.

In praise of Venice's Cipriani and other glam abodes.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Fortuny restaurant
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We’re not kidding. We slept in George Clooney’s bed in his favourite suite at The Cipriani Hotel in Venice. Which led Mrs Amos to reflect on what makes a really great hotel and reminisce about her best five-star experiences. Mr Amos shares his photos of the Cipriani.

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Poetry in motion

A perfect day on the Connecticut Coast

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Bentley at rest, Watch Hill
Watch Hill
Ocean House
leaving Ocean House
Water St. Stonington
Water St cafe
Stonington's Lighthouse Museum
Stonington waterfront
waiting in Stonington
Grace Zaring Stone's yard
Water St. both sides
bye Alfred
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Wherein we discover many poetic things about a beautiful Connecticut village and take a spin along the coast in a gleaming new Bentley convertible.

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Paris’ Museum of Horrors

Do you have the nerve to visit the Musée Fragonard?

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
ecorches de Fragonard
clinique equine
conventional veterinarian displays
foetus dansant
view of stables from Fragonard museum
horseman
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This creepy little museum, at Maisons-Alfort near Paris, houses one of the most grotesque collections of exhibits you might find anywhere, outside of Madame Tussaud’s Chamber of Horrors. Except in this case, everything on display, whether a two-headed calf or a flayed human corpse riding a horse, is real.

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A Civilised Wilderness

Architect Geoffrey Bawa's Sri Lankan paradise

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
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A fascinating way to see Sri Lanka is to follow the  informal ‘Bawa trail’ of hotels and houses designed in the second half of the 20th Century by celebrated architect Geoffrey Bawa. Lunuganga, his tranquil private garden and residence near the popular coastal town of  Bentota, is unmissable. Even better: you can now stay there and waft through the cinnamon grove as if it’s your own.

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London’s New Cafe Society

Sleeping in the controversial Cafe Royal

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Lee Tulloch
room
bar, entrance
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London’t newest five star hotel has received some excoriating reviews for its minimalist aesthetic. But Mrs Amos thinks the British press has lost its marbles. She investigates and has a different verdict.

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The Best Little Town in Texas

The buzz is all about Marfa

Words: Sam Griffin, Photography: Sam Griffin
art or ad?
bull sales on Hwy 90 near Valentine
Pinto Canyon rd RM 2810, turn off for Chinati Hot Springs
Donald Judd, part of 15 Untitled Works in Concrete at Chinati Foundation
Donald Judd, part of 15 Untitled Works in Concrete at Chinati Foundation, #2
Llama protecting the goats at Marfa Maid Dairy
Yuccas grow like weeds here, Davis Mountains in background
Century plant
from Presidio take 67 North to Marfa
Cemetery at Terlingua Ghost Town
Yes, you can play mini golf in 120 degree heat, Terlingua
signage for the old Stardust Motel
Playing on the tracks off Casa Piedra
swimming in the water tank off Casa Piedra
Mule
my casita
Feather grass
my 1974 F100 Ford pick up
Me in Big Bend National Park
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It’s not near a big city, a major airport or an outlet mall. It doesn’t have a McDonalds, a Starbucks, or most of the other familiar signs of global commercialism, just a solitary Dairy Queen. But for some, Marfa, Texas is the centre of the universe.  Filmmaker Sam Griffin explains why she keeps being drawn back.

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The Divinely Decadent QT

Life is a Cabaret at Sydney's cheekiest hotel.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
foyer, entrance
lounge
foyer
Nic Graham, foyer
bar grill
bar grill, waiter
basement, barber
cafe
suite, espresso martini
suite
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It might have been devised by Federico Fellini and Bob Fosse, with a bit of help from Jean Cocteau and glam rocker Marc Bolan. Exuberantly designed and cleverly appointed (and a sequin short of camp)the QT is a bold and wonderful addition to Sydney’s mostly-beige hotel scene.

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Hello Sailors!

It’s chefs ahoy for 30 years of the Hamilton Island regatta

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Wild Oats
flora & fauna at Beach Club
Elvis
opening night cocktails
Moran Bennett Boatshed breakfast
Chiswick dinner
Hamilton Island Yacht Club
Audi R8
yachties & dandies
flora, Southern Humpback Whale
in & out
ocean lounging
race to the start
crispy prawn wontons
Sichuan eggplant with cucumber, mini tarts
lounge & deck Pavilion 3 Qualia
bath & bed Pavilion 3 Qualia
Pavilion 3 Qualia
table setting dinner Qualia
cocktails at Qualia
dinner & bikinis Qualia
30th Anniversary dinner Qualia
sunrise at Catseye Beach
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Audi Hamilton Island Race Week is not just about yachts. We discovered whales, koalas, kookaburras, retro bathing beauties, fast cars, and the cooking of three of Australia’s best chefs. No wonder we didn’t want it to end!

 

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Valpo: Chile’s dilapidated beauty

There's no rhyme nor reason to this poetic, coastal town.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
cerro concepcion
uphill
corrugated
a bargain?
style
up and down
doors
power couple
dodgy laneway
art
port
el plano, trolley bus
el plano
mercado central
mercado central out and in
Casa Higueras
Hotel 17
port
bbq, view from Casa Higueras
Pasta e Vino
Vinilo - Mrs & Gonzalo
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‘If we walk up and down all of Valparaiso’s stairs, we will have made a trip around the earth.’ So wrote Pablo Neruda, Chile’s great  poet, of the romantic, raffish city that hangs above Chile’s Pacific coast, winding around forty-five steep hills and defying gravity, geography and history.

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Where the Wild Things Are

South Africa's Luxe Molori Safari Lodge

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Elephants at dawn
Sephiri suite
Molelo Presidential suite
Metsi Presidential suite
lounge and bar
the bar, Greg
tracking
White Rhino
dawn
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Is this South Africa’s most luxurious safari lodge? Mr Amos took his cameras to Molori in the Madikwe Game Reserve, near the Botswana border, and was astounded by the access to Africa’s iconic beasts.

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Sleeping in the Tivoli Gardens

Copenhagen's enchanting Nimb Hotel.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Nimb from Tivoli Gardens
Peacock theatre Tivoli Gardens
reception, nook, Nimb
junior suite Nimb
junior suite Nimb
Brasserie Nimb
Bar Nimb
Bar Nimb
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From the Tivoli Gardens it looks like a fairground attraction – a faux Moorish Palace that might house a maze of mirrors, a magic carpet ride or a sideshow of undulating belly dancers. But Copenhagen’s best hotel, the Nimb, is all elegant Nordic style within. And you can watch the children’s pantomime from your bed.

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The Divine Drift of River Cruising

Get over the fairytales. The eastern Danube is ugly-beautiful.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
barges from the stern
passage in Bucharest
St Anthony's  Bucharest
dilapidated Bucharest
Bucharest, bathing at Rousse
communist sculpture & signage on the road to Varna
bathing at Varna
Varna hipsters, Belgrade Fort
Sava river Belgrade
Viminacium Serbia
Belogradchick
dining on the River Princess
Donji Milanovac
Vukovar
monastery in Vinkozci Croatia
church on Danube
near the Iron Gate
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It’s day two of our Eastern European river cruise and the only cruising we’ve done is drifting across the Danube from the Romanian side of the river to the Bulgarian side, a distance of less than a kilometre. Eventually the ship will glide upstream towards Vienna, passing through Serbia, Croatia and Hungary, but right now we’re moored at an embankment where corpulent Bulgarians lie along the hot concrete towpath browning themselves in the 35 degree C heat.  But we wouldn’t have it any other way. Unlike ocean cruises, river cruises let you get down with the locals. Drifting is just our speed.

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Beau Monde of the Dead

Paris' cool underground

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Jim Morrison
Rossini
Marcel Proust
Sarah Bernhardt
Oscar Wilde
Aux Morts
Edith Piaf
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Jim Morrison, lead singer of the Doors, was buried in an unmarked grave at Paris’ Père Lachaise cemetery in 1971. He was moved to a proper resting place with a monument shortly after. And then someone lopped off his head. A perfect tale for Bastille Day we think.

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The gallery off Main Street

In a place you've never heard of, an undiscovered artist

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography of Ivoryton Tony Amos
M.C.
Entering Lutea
First Guide
Acrobats
untitled
Cornered
East Sixty Eighth Street
Flying Matchbook #22
Hammonassett
Towyn
Left, Right+ Center
Lycopersion Daucue Carota
Medaling
Peepshow,collaboration with Pam Erickson
Perseus
Brellas
Signage
study for Viking Verses
Summer Squash
Thought Process
untitled
Main St. Ivoryton
Mill Pond, Ivoryton
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It’s the only place in the world called Ivoryton. The quiet Connecticut village was once the place where ivory was made into piano keys, but these days is most famous for the Ivoryton Playhouse, America’s longest continually running summer stock theatre, where Katharine Hepburn made her debut. But there’s something else to discover about Ivoryton: tucked away off Main Street is a shingled fibreglass factory-turned-gallery, dedicated to the intriguing works of an unsung photographer and artist, Richard Davis.

 

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Harlem Hep Cats

Dive into New York's swingingest jazz bar

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Melvin Vines
Bill Peck
Sweet Lee
Catherine Harley
Bill, Melvin
Melvin Vines
the bar
Bill Peck
Samuel Hargress Jr
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From the street, it doesn’t look encouraging, but that’s Harlem for you. A string of Christmas lights hangs limply outside, even though it’s October. There’s a little picket fence under a dismal awning. The boulevard is almost deserted. For those looking for nightlife in the big city, this is probably not anyone’s first choice. But Paris Blues is the dive of your dreams – a genuine local bar with sizzling hot jazz run by Harlem’s coolest cat.

 
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PARIS CHECK IN : HOTELS WITH STYLE

Six fabulous hotels for fashionistas

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos, Lee Tulloch (La Pavillon De La Reine & Daniel)
Mistinguett suite - L'Hotel
La Pavillon De La Reine
suite 601 Hotel Le Bellechasse
foyer, entrance - L'Hotel
Le Bar - L'Hotel
room service, Le Restaurant - L'Hotel
La table du Lancaster, reception - Hotel Lancaster
Marlene Dietrich Suite - Hotel Lancaster
Marlene Dietrich Suite - Hotel Lancaster
suite 400 - Hotel Lancaster
doorman, foyer - Le Bristol
suite - Le Bristol
pool - Le Bristol
Restaurant du Daniel - Hotel Daniel
room 101 - Hotel Daniel
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With so many good hotels in Paris to choose from, how do you pick a residence that’s right for you? Mrs Amos casts a frankly feminine eye over the city’s offerings and selects six romantic hotels that will delight even the most exacting fashionista.

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SHABBY CHICA

Bellavista is Santiago's bohemian barrio.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
colourful Bellavista
central Santiago
Club Hipico de Santiago
Cerro San Cristobal
The Aubrey
The Aubrey - lounge
The Aubrey - dining
The Aubrey - piano bar
sketchy Bellavista
keep walking
Patio Bellavista
Bellavista - Ciudad Vieja
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The Chilean poet Pablo Neruda chose Santiago’s Bellavista neighbourhood for his secret hideaway. These days, the still slightly down-at-heel barrio has gained one of Santiago’s best boutique hotels, while retaining the disreputable air that once attracted the city’s artists and writers.

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New York’s luxed-up NoMad

No longer no man's land

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Nomad foyer
uptown view, suite
Nomad dining
Nomad library and roof
flower district, Madison Square
wig-out Broadway
EAT, Madison Square
EAT, Korea town
Korea town
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New York’s newest acronym, NoMad, has always been a bit of a No Man’s Land.  Roughly extending north from 23rd Street to 30th Street, between Avenue of the Americas and Lexington Avenue, it has been not so much a neighbourhood but the lack of a neighbourhood, squeezed between defined districts such as Chelsea, Murray Hill, Gramercy Park and the office district of Midtown, which each have their own character.

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Bitter-Sweet Sri Lanka

It's just like India on Prozac

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Adam's Peak
The Wallawwa
on the road
Ulagalla
Sigiriya rock
Anuradhapura
Ena De Silva
Kandy House
Dutch House
Temple of the Buddha's tooth relic
Rajadhani Express, Peradeniya junction
Hattam
Castlereagh
path to Adam's Peak
below Adam's Peak
Lunuganga
Galle Fort
Singer, spices - Galle
Galle Fort
Kahanda Kanda, roti at Sunset Cafe
Amangalla
traffic
Pettah market
Tintagel, Pettah Market
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Sri Lanka is only 35 km distance from India across the Gulf of Mannar (and ‘forty miles from Heaven’, according to native tradition) yet, in many ways, it is the un-India – environmentally pristine, mostly undeveloped, exceptionally safe and free of hassles, except perhaps when navigating its famously appalling roads.

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Along France’s beautiful Charente

A photographer and his iPhone capture the romance of a great river.

Words and Photography: Creed O'Hanlon
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These uncaptioned black and white photos were shot on an iPhone 4S while wandering downriver – along tow-paths and vineyard tracks and over old stone bridges – between Angouleme and Cognac, in the autumn of 2012…

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The Great Gatsby Mansions

The magnificent mansions that inspired F.Scott Fitzgerald

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
gate - Old Westbury
Mulsanne, courtyard - Oheka
entrance, poolhouse - Oheka
dining - Oheka
library - Oheka
garden - Oheka
Oheka
Eagle's Nest
Eagle's  Nest
Marine, Antelope - Eagle's Nest
poolhouse - Eagle's Nest
boat house, crest - Eagle's Nest
Old Westbury Gardens
exterior - Old Westbury
dining - Old Westbury
ballroom - Old Westbury
tea, bathroom - Old Westburyestburry
garden, bride - Coe house
Hempstead
knocker, doorway - Falaise
Agrippa, stable - Falaise
forest, sea - Falaise
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When Baz Lurhmann chose a location for the new movie version of F Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby he decided to shoot the film in the stately homes of Sydney’s Eastern Suburbs, rather the grand mansions of Long Island’s ‘Gold Coast’, the setting for Fitzgerald’s classic 1925 novel about a mysterious bootlegger and his passion for a mercurial young flapper.

 
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Stopping over in Dubai

Is shopping the new Arabian Adventure?

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
desert, fountain - Dubai Mall
old town, souq
river taxis
bling
Marriott Marquis Lounge, The Souk - Dubai Mall
the souk - Dubai Mall
lunch- Dubai Mall
Fauchon - Dubai Mall
Paco Rabanne - Dubai Mall
Tiffany - Dubai Mall
butterflies - Dubai Mall
skyline from Park Hyatt
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I’m just a tiny bit shocked when Mr Amos, who is the world’s greatest mall-phobic, tells me he is eager to visit the Dubai Mall. We’ve arrived on the inaugural flight to Dubai of Australia’s Qantas Airways and we’ve spent two days celebrating hard Qantas’s important new relationship with the UAE’s Emirates. I’m trying to work out something authentic we can do – falconing perhaps? – when Mr Amos decrees, ‘The new Arabian Adventure is shopping.’

 
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Budapest Fest

The Hungarian capital rivals Vienna for scrumptiousness.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Gerloczy, Ruszwurm
Muvesz
New York Cafe
Budapest
Budapest, House of Terror, Plaque to the Dead
Outside Mai Mano House, Mai Mano Studio
Parisi Udvar, Gerbeaud
Hermes-Kut, Antiques
Gresham Palace, Szechenyi Chain Bridge
New York Cafe
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Twelve Budapest cafes in three days. More than a dozen tortes, four pancakes, five luscious icecreams, a warm cherry strudel, sticky beef goulash, roast duck with tangerine, piquant savoury pogácsa, goose crackling, marzipan, plum schnapps, fiery palinka, and countless cups of deep, rich espresso. Someone had to do it. And that someone was me.

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Falaknuma: an Indian palace is reborn

The home of the scandalous Nizams of Hyderabad is now a hotel.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Gol bungalow terrace, carriage
entrance to Adaa, suite
croquet lawn
billiard room, ballroom
dining room, foyer
Jade Room
stables, terrace
breakfast, view from bar
pavilion at croquet lawn, smoking room
view from zenana
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The Seventh Nizam of Hyderabad was once the world’s richest man. Eccentric and profligate, he collected enough pearls to fill an Olympic swimming pool, used the 400-carat Jacob diamond as a paperweight, and had so much cash lying around that it was snacked on by rats. He was also very cheap. He knitted his own socks and drove an old Ford. His palace fell into ruins around him – until the Taj Group rescued it with a mindblowing, 15 year restoration.

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All’s swell in the Maldives

He surfs, she spas. Perfect holiday.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Lagoon Villas
Lagoon Villa, Bathroom of Lagoon Villa
Personal Bikes, Abaya Clad Women
Dining
Norio, Tempura prawn
Maldivian Curry, Leaf
Deck at Leaf, Beach Dinner at Dusk
Altar by the Sea
Dhoni, Directions
Beach Villa
Outdoor Shower, Spa
View from Beach Villa, Off to Yin Yang
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If there’s a surfer in the family, it’s a familiar scenario – when it comes to deciding on a beach holiday, the surfer won’t countenance going anyplace where there’s not a wave. Trouble is, surfers like Mr. Amos are terrible snobs about their waves. Nirvana for them is an unsurfed break that can only be reached by a trek through mosquito-infested jungle in a remote location until recently populated by headhunters. If the non-surfing partner is looking for something less barbaric – a nice bed, perhaps, some fine dining and a bit of spa therapy – a destination to please both may prove very elusive. Add kids to the mix and the result can be a compromise that doesn’t suit anyone.

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Smythson Notebook

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos

The lovely people at Firmdale Hotels gave Mrs Amos this notebook. The gilt-edged lightweight pages provide plenty of room for writing down flights of fancy but it’s still small enough for a pocket.

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Paris Heaven Scent

Ten must-visit niche fragrance houses, from the edgy to the extravagant.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Frederic Malle
Frederic Malle, L’Artisan Parfumeur
Jar
Rosine, Diptyque
Etat Libre D’Orange
Annick Goutal,  Serge Lutens
Serge Lutens
Jovoy
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This Left Bank treasure has to be the chicest perfumery in Paris. Based on the idea of book editions, the boutique showcases editions of fragrances from the worlds exceptional perfumers – Pierre Bourdon, Jean-Claude Ellena, Edouard Fléchier, Olivia Giacobetti, Maurice Roucel, Edmond Roudnitska, Michel Roudnitska, Ralf Schwieger and Dominique Ropion.

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Weekend in Tokyo

Tokyo’s arcane system of non-addresses mean you might as well follow your nose.

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Roppongi Taxis
Akasuka Geishas, Akasuka Sushi
Kappabashi Food
Sensoji Temple
Rice Crackers, Matsuya
Shopping Ladies, Ginza
Metro
Metro
River Cruise, Nezu Museum
Ginza
Under JR Line, Ginza
Shibuya, Outside 109
Shibuya
Aoyama
Omotesando
Harajuku Goth
Harajuku, Meiji Shrine
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Outside Shibuya 109, the ten-level fashion emporium near Tokyo’s busiest intersection, it’s late Friday afternoon and it seems as if all of Tokyo’s schoolgirls are descending on the store en masse. Somewhere between school and shop the girls have hitched up their uniforms and added a few racy accessories like garters, tiaras and fingerless gloves, making it impossible to tell whether they are real schoolgirls or young women fashioning themselves as schoolgirls as part of A Look.

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Jet Set Tasselled Scarf by Everyday Cashmere in Baby Pink

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos

100% cashmere, super snugly, many uses as scarf, shawl and blanket on the flight. Makes the back of the plane bearable. $375AUD

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Sleeping with Evita

And where to find the famous first lady’s frocks

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Library/Lobby Legado Mitico
Eva Peron room
Museo Evita
Museo Evita
Museo Evita
La Recoleta
La Recoleta
Tree Lined traffic
Palermo Soho
Palermo Soho
Don Julio
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In Buenos Aires for the first time, I find it almost impossible to get the dramatic tunes from the musical ‘Evita’ out of my head. And, oddly enough, although the country has moved on from the dark Peronist days of the 1950s, it seems the soundtrack of the city, apart from the moody, broody tangos you hear played everywhere, often includes Don’t Cry for me Argentina, piped through the sound systems in shopping malls and hotel lobbies.

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Going Baroque in Venice

A photographer's dream assignment

Words: Richie Williamson, Photography: Richie Williamson
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In the summer of 1984 Alain Burger, my photo agent in Paris, and I went to Rome for an assignment to cover the Night People of Rome. This was an assignment that I had presented to Andy Warhol’s Interview Magazine as a continuing travelogue that I had been doing for them through out Europe. I took my large 4×5 Camera as my weapon of choice and away we went…

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Lost Tribeca

A local landmark was once a great dilapidated beauty

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
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The handsome red brick building on the corner of Hudson and Duane Streets in Tribeca was, in recent years, occupied by David Bouley’s gastronomic empire (now it’s a condo) but back in the 1990s and long before that was the home of the Mohawk Electric Supply Company. Mr. Amos had his eye on it since we moved into the neighbourhood in 1995 – finally he talked owner Lou into allowing him access to shoot locations inside for Singapore Vogue (another lost thing – but returning in 2020) before Lou retired and sold the building in 1996.

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A Good Souq

Buckets of Bedouin silver

Words: Lee Tulloch, Photography: Tony Amos
Fish Market, View from Corniche
Corniche, Muttrah Souk
Corniche, Fragrance store Muttrah Souk
Muttrah Souk
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You can’t get Mrs Amos out of a good souq and the ‘Gold’ souq at Muttrah, along the beautiful Corniche from Muscat, Oman, is one of the most authentic.

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